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ICTURES 
FROM... 
NORTHWEST 
HISTORY 



By GLENN N. RANCK. 

Ex-Scrgcant Co. G, 
Washington Volunteers. 




INDEPENDENT PRINT. VANCOUVER, WASH. 



out 



go 



CONTENTS. 



1. Introduction. 

2. The Coming of the Builders. 

3. A Historical Debating Society. 

4. Under the Greenwood Tree. 

5. Dedicating the Pacific Coast to Freedom. 

6. Raising the Banner of Freedom in the Northwest. 

7. Esther Short and the Redcoats. 

8. A Pioneer Witness-Tree. 

9. Hank Pearson's Ride, 

10. The Castle on the Plains. 

11. Ballad of the Battle-Ground. 

12. A Western Cromwell. 



INTRODUCTION. 



It is highly desirable that the people of any State or 
Nation should be familiar with its history. We take a 
just pride in the settlement and early history of the United 
States. The landing of the Pilgrim Fathers, the coming 
of the Puritans and Quakers, and the early Colonial wars 
are known to all. 

The "beginnings" of any State are always of absorb- 
ing interest. This is especially true of Oregon and Wash- 
ington. Through our trackless forests roamed the dusky 
redman, the swarthy French-Canadian, the reckless fur- 
trapper, the venturesome courier-de-bois and other wan- 
dering "soldiers of fortune." Adown our crystal streams 
floated the light canoe of the French "voyageur," making 
the forests resound with his boisterous mirth and musical 
chansons. Amid these scenes of gaiety and strife moved 
the sombre frock of the devout missionary — Roman Cath- 
olic and Protestant. Here Fathers Blanchet and Brouillet, 
Dr. Spalding and Marcus Whitman vied with each other 
in the spreading of the Gospel. 

And then came the sturdy pioneer, with his noble wife 
and his children. His worldly possessions were few, but 
with his indomitable resolve and ardent patriotism, he 
founded these grand sister-States and saved this region 
for the Union. 

The history of the Pacific Northwest begins with the 
discovery of the Columbia River by an American sailor, 
Robert Gray, on May 11, 1792. This was followed by other 
explorations on sea and land, including the famous expe- 
dition by Lewis and Clark in 1805. Then came the fur- 
trappers and the ill-fated attempt of John Jacob Astor to 
establish a trading post at Astoria. On the other side, the 
British spirit of acquisition was typified in that powerful 
organization, the Hudson's Bay Company, which soon 
made its appearance upon the scene. The early mission- 
aries came in the 30's and the first home builders in the 
40's. In 1818 the United States and England signed the 
Treaty of Joint Occupation. This treaty was renewed 
every ten years until 1846, when it was abrogated by a 
new treaty by which the Oregon Territory became an 
undisputed part of the United States. 

While waiting for the settlement of the boundary dis- 
pute between the United States and England, the settlers 
of the Oregon Territory organizd a provisional govern- 
ment, with George Abernethy as Governor. This lasted 



from lS-1.5 to 1849, when the Territory was duly organized 
by act of Congress. The new Governor, General Joseph 
Lane, took the oath of office on the last day of President 
Polk's administration. Washington Territory was organ- 
ized in 1853, Isaac I. Stevens being the first Governor. 
Oregon was admitted to statehood in 1S59, and Washing- 
ton in 1889. 

Until 1853, the Oregon Territory included all of Ore- 
gon and Washington and a part of Idaho. 

The first Indian war in the Northwest began with the 
Whitman massacre in 1847. Six years afterwards a short 
campaign was carried on against the Indians of the Rogue 
River Valley. In the winter of 1S55-5G occurred the great 
Indian uprising which lighted the Western hills with 
beacon fires of burning log cabins from the lava beds of 
Klamath to the blue shores of Puget Sound. This was the 
result of a powerful coalition among the savage tribes, 
known as the "Conspiracy of Kamiakin." 

J. he story of this great onslaught is replete with 
bloody massacres and hard-fought battles. This terrible 
struggle was a severe trial of the courage and fortitude of 
the early settlers. It has left for us many thrilling tra- 
ditions — a dramatic story for every storm-swept crag", a 
tender legend for every sun-lit vale. Shall we hear them? 

This series of disconnected sketches is written with 
the hope of awakening an interest in the hearts of all. 
especially of the school children, in our long-neglected 
Nortliwest history. A feeble attempt has been made to 
invest the scenes with the same life and spirit with which 
.they were enacted. It is hoped that these pages will not 
be found dull and colorless to the reader. Indeed, to the 
sympathetic student any account of the trials, hardships 
and the heroic deeds of our gallant oioneer men and 
women, should never be found lacking in life or spirit. 

Too much credit cannot be given our patriotic pio- 
neers. Leaving home and friends behind them, they trav- 
eled for months across the desert plains, erected homes, 
schools and churches, endured the hardships of Indian 
warfare, founded three noble commonwealths, and fairh^ 
won this magnificent domain for the Union. 

To the writer the "short and simple annals'' of the 
early settlers — their strivings, their sufferings, their hero- 
ism, "their homely joj^s and destiny obscure" are of en- 
trancing, absorbing interest. He wishes to lay his faint 
but fervent tribute of praise at their feet. 

To the sturdy pioneer and his noble wife this volume 
is humbly and reverently dedicated. 

GLENN N. RANCK. 



THE COMING OF THE BUILDERS. 



"1 hear the treid of pioneers of nations yet to be, , 

Tlie first low wash of waves where soon shall roll a human sea." 

"The immigration of "43" was the largest of the early 
movements to the Northwest and may be taken as typical 
of the others. 

During their famous winter journey of the year pre- 
vious, Marcus Whitman and A. L. Lovejoy in addresses 
and letters to their friends and to the newspapers pictured 
the glories of the Pacific Coast and its importance to the 
Union. On every auspicious occasion they faithfully 
preached the Gospel of the Northwest. 

Earl}' in the spring, while the melting snow still lin- 
gered on many a wind-swept hill, the people began their 
pilgrimage toward the appointed rendezvous in a grove 
near Independence, Missouri. They gathered as if by 
magic, soon numbering one tliousand dauntless spirits. 
They came from all parts of the Mississippi Valley, bring- 
ing their families, horses, wagons, cattle and household 
goods. They had taken their last look at the old home, 
had viewed for the last time the scenes of their youthful 
jtiys, and had spoken their last good-bj' to their dearest 
friends, for they were about to depart on a long journey 
to a far country, never to return. 

Notices were circulated through the various camps 
calling a meeting on Maj'' 17, for the purpose of drawing 
up a compact and forming an organization. It was truly 
a motley assemblage which thus came together. Peter H. 
Burnett, afterwards Governor of California, was first 
called upon for a speech, which he delivered from a throne 
of moss-carpeted logs. Among the audience was a gallant 
youth, named John W. Ncsmith, who was destined to 
win glory for himself and Oregon in the senate of the 
United States. Senator Nesmith has left the following 
account of Burnett's address: 

"He appealed to our patriotism by picturing forth the 
glorious empire we should establish on the shores of the 
Pacific; how with our trusty rifles we would drive out the 
British usurpers who claimed the soil, and defend the 
country from the advances and pretensions of the British, 
and how posterity would honor us for placing the finest 
portion of our country under the dominion of the Stars 
and Stripes.' He concluded by a slight allusion to the 



hardships and trials incident to the trip, and dangers to 
be encountered from hostile Indians. He furthermore in- 
timated a desire to look upon the tribe of 'noble redmen' 
that the valiant and well-armed crowd around him could 
not vanquish in a single encounter." 

After other patriotic addresses, an organization was 
formed by the election of Mr. Burnett as captain, and J. 
W. Nesmith as orderly sergeant. 

On May 20, 1843, this semi-militarj^ caravan took up 
the line of march. Captain Gantt, an old trapper and 
mountaineer, acted as guide to the Green River, where Dr. 
Whitman overtook them and guided them to Fort Hall. 
From that point they were led by an old Cayuse Indian, 
named "Sticcus." 

Dr. Whitman strongly insisted that the settlers should 
take their wagons all the way to the Columbia. They fol- 
lowed his wise counsel and brought the first "prairie 
schooners" to the '"continuous woods, where rolls the 
Oregon." 

They marched as did Crusaders to the Holy Land. 
Scouts rode in advance to prevent surprise from bandS 
of prowling savages; a specified number of men were 
continually under arms, ready at all times to repel any 
attack, while faithful sentinels kept the lonely vigils of 
the night, peering with tireless eyes into the mysterious 
darkness for any flitting forms or phantoms which might 
disturb the weird bivouac of the wanderers. 

For full six months the homeseekers journeyed on 
and on, over barren deserts strewn with the ghastly skel- 
etons of men and cattle, across high mountains and 
swollen torrents, till they came in sight of the beautiful 
valleys of the promised land. Having once put their hands 
to the plough-share, amid all their trials and temptations 
they never failed; they never for a moment thought of 
turning back. 

Nor was the journey without its brighter sides. Many 
an amusing incident occurred which kept the traveling 
community in mirth for days; many enduring friendships 
were formed which ceased only wiT:h life itself. 

Gathering at eventide around the camp fire's fitful 
beams, they sang the songs that Israel sang beside the 
deep Red Sea; they sang the songs of Home and Freedom 
beneath the greenwood tree, and of the land they would 
redeem for sweet liberty. In the serene and quiet night 
from some lone mountain-side rang the glad, clear song 
of the pioneer, rousing the mountain lion from his downy 
couch, while trembled with fright the timid deer. 



THE HYMN OF THE PIONEER 

I'roin broad Mississippi's swelling main 

We come over mountain and desert plain, 

We come as did Israel's chosen host 

To seek Freedom's liome on Pacific's fair coast; 

To win for the Union, by strength of the Lord, 

The fair land of I'romise from Royalty's horde. 

Swell the bold chorus, exultingly sing. 

With Liberty's anthem the dim woods will ring. 

Our homes in the West shall proclaim Liberty, 
There from his bondage the slave shall be free; 
We sing the glad songs of the brave and the blest, 
For the spirit of freedom abides in the West. 
Swell the sweet anthem, exultant and free, 
Sound the loud timbrel from sea unto sea, 
Jehovah will triumph, his people be free, 
All will be free— all will be free! 

At length, their sojourn in the wilderness being o'er, 
from some lofty mountain height they viewed the prom- 
ised land. When they beheld the fertile valley of the 
majestic Columbia, and the beautiful blue waters of Puget 
Sound covcM-cd with so many lovely isles, it all seemed to 
them like a fairy picture of that quest of the ages: 

"The island-valley of Avalon, 
Where falls not hail, or rain, or any snow, 
Nor even wind blows loudly; but it lies 
Oeep-meadowed, happy, fair with orchard-lawns. 
And bowery hollows crowned with summer sea." 

And here, soothed by the moaning of Old Ocean, 
pleased by the melody of murmuring streams, and 
charmed by the cheery welcome of the birds, they ceased 
from their quest and founded the States of Washington 
and Oregon. 



A HISTORICAL DEBATING SOCIETY. 



History as it is "wrote" pays very little attention to 
the Debating Club. In fact, most histories do not even 
mention the term. Still, the Debating Society or Lyceum 
is one of the "institutions" of America. It is a part of the 
great American system. From the landing of the Pilgrims, 
during the Colonial period, in the upbuilding of the 
mighty West, and on to the present time, it has always 
played an important part in our history. This institution 
had a share in the "Americanizing" of the great North- 
west, and helped to save it as a part of our glorious Union. 

Among the first social organizations of this region 
was the Lyceum and Debating Society formed by the 
early settlers at Willamette Falls, now Oregon City. From 
1840 to 1843 the most important question in the minds of 
the pioneers was the question of government. Under the 
Treaty of Joint Occupancy, neither the United States 
nor Great Britain could take any steps toward controlling 
the political affairs of the Oregon Territory, which then 
included Washington. Thus left alone, the pioneers found 
themselves torn by conflicting emotions and desires. One 
party, formed by the British and Brench-Canadians con- 
nected with the Hudson's Bay Company, and aided b}^ 
some unpatriotic Americans, favored an independent gov- 
ernment — a Pacific republic. On the other side, a tem- 
porary government, based upon the principles of the 
American constitution and providing for ultimate absorp- 
tion by the great Republic, was near to the hearts of the 
patriotic Americans as a "consummation devoutlj^ to be 
wished." This great Question was freely discussed at var- 
ious meetings of the Lyceum. At a meeting early in 1843 
the following resolution was offered as a subject for 
debate: "Resolved, that it is expedient for the settlers 
upon the Pacific coast to establish an independent govern- 
ment." George Aberncthy, afterward first provisional 
Governor of Oregon, opposed the resolution, but after a 
warm discussion it was carried by a large majority. To 
check this drifting away from the Union. j\Ir. Abernethy 
introduced as the subject at tht next debate: "Resolved, 
that if the United States extends its jurisdiction over this 
country within the next four years, it will not be expe- 
dient to form an independent government." 

By the time for the next meeting great interest had 
been aroused, and the people attended in large numbers, 
some bringing their wives and children. The men who 



thus came together in that rude, dimly-lighted log cabin 
on that eventful evening, in personality, appearance and 
traditions, presented many strong contrasts. 

The flickering light from the blazing fireplace and the 
candles' fitful beams casting weird, grotesque shadows 
about the room, served to bring the characters into bolder 
relief, and made the contrasts more intense. 

There was one of the early missionaries, a follower of 
John Wesley, sitting by a group of French-Canadians; 
a French Huguenot, whose forefathers had fled across the 
sea after that ill-fated eve of St. Bartholomew, sat near 
a venturesome courier-de-bois who had crossed the rag- 
nig torrents and roamed the trackless wilds from the isles 
of the St. Lawrence to the River of the West. A descend- 
ant of a gallant cavalier who had fought that Prince 
Charlie might "come to his own again" jostled against a 
Puritan whose forefathers fought on the side of Oliver 
Cromwell at Naseby and Marston Moor. On the virgin 
soil of Oregon the roundhead was again to win a victory 
over the cavalier; freedom was again to triumph over 
royalty. The grandson of a British redcoat who had sur- 
rendered with Cornwallis was about to yield a bloodless 
sword to an American whose grandfather had suffered 
with Washington at Valley Forge only to triumph with 
him at Yorktown.* 

Before this motley group George Abernethy arose to 
defend his patriotic resolution. We have no record of his 
speech, only that it was "earnest." That is all. He doubt- 
less reminded the Americans of the immortal Declaration 
of Independence, of the suffering and trials of their Revo- 
lutionary forefathers, of the efforts of Washington. Mad- 
ison and Franklin, to establish this glorious Union. And 
how Clay and Webster. Jackson and Benton, the great 
friend of the West, had protected and preserved it. "Was 
it in vain that the embattled yeomanry of Lexington and 
Concord had fought so bravely "by the rude bridge that 
spanned the flood?" Was it in vain that Warren had given 
up his life on the field of Bunker Hill? Could they for- 
get the blood-stained footprints of Valley Forge, the stir- 
ring midnight ride of Paul Revere, or the recent perilous 
journey of their gallant comrade, Marcus Whitman? 
Never while life lasted could they forget the traditions and 
legends of their heroic ancestry! Never until liberty be- 
came merely a memory and patriotism only a name, 
would they falter in their love or devotion to the great 
Republic! 

While the patriot was speaking no sounds were heard 
save the sound of the speaker's voice. But ere his voice 
had died away a mighty shout arose from the hardy pio- 



neers. All patriotic Americans present "joined in." the 
mild tones of the women and children blended with the 
strong, lusty voices of the men in one grand triumphal 
note. It rolled through the room, on out into the little 
clearing and penetrated the forests beyond. "The dim 
aisles of the woods rang with the anthems of the free." 

What was that shout and what did it mean? It was 
the paeon of liberty. It was the victorious cry of triumph- 
ant freedom. It meant that the resolution was carried 
by a large majority and that Old Glory would yet wave 
over the homes of the West. The fire on the hearth had 
burned low, smoldered and died; but in living hearts an- 
other fire glowed brightly, for those burning words had 
"kindled the land into flame with their heat." It is now 
over half a century since this scene was enacted, but the 
speech of Abernethy before that historic debating society 
is not forgotten by the descendants of the pioneers. 



*Rev. Gushing Eels was descended from Maj. Samuel Eels, one 
of Cromwell's officers. Hon. C. M. Bradshaw was a direct descendant 
of John Bradshaw, vijlio presided at the famous trial of King Charles 
I. Mr. Bradshaw still preserves the relics of the brave "regicide" 
who boldly voted to behead the tyrant kinglet. Rev. G. Hines, Rev. 
1). Leslie, the Crocketts, McBrides and the Applegates were from Rev- 
olutionary ancestry. Of course, they were not all present at this par- 
ticular meeting, but they participated in many similar scenes. O. W. 
Le Breton, who doubtless was present, was a noble type of the patriotic 
Huguenots. 



UNDER THE GREENWOOD TREE. 



Owing to the noble efforts of the early missionaries, 
and patriotic discussions in the Pioneer Lyceum, the de- 
mand of the settlers of the Oregon Territory for a tem- 
porary government based upon American principles and 
l)roviding for ultimate absorption by the United States, 
continued to grow rapidlv in the spring of 1843. This 
l^lan met with great opoosition from the British settlers 
and the employees of the Hudson's Bay Cf)mpan}\ In 
iirder to quiet this onoosition a meeting was called for 
the purpose of adopting measures for the defense of herds 
against the attacks of wolves and other wild animals, 
This meeting was held at the house of Joseph Gervais in 
the Willamette Valley, and is known as the "Wolf Meet- 
ing." It declared war against wolves, bears, panthers 
and other predatory animals, and adopted plans for their 
destruction. A treasurer was elected and the organization 
of the Wfllf Association was completed. 

But the meeting did not adjourn. As if moved by 
some unseen inspiration, it then and there passed a reso- 
lution for the appointment of a committee of twelve "to 
take into consideration the propriety of taking measures 
for the civil and military protection of the colony." A 
written protest from the subjects of the Queen was 
promptly laid on the table. 

The committee of twelve called the colonists to meet 
at Champoeg on May :.'. 1^^4:5, to vote on their plan of 
government. 

Centuries before the freeholders of England had met 
in a meadow at Runnj'mede and there wrested their sa- 
cred rights from the reluctant hand of a cowardly king. 
So now did these free American citizens assemble in an 
open field to uphold the scepter of freedom and justice 
against the determined assaults of tyranny and royalty. 
The meeting which was held on this beautiful day in 
May was one of the most interesting and picturesque in 
all history. There were emigrant wagons, the earliest 
"prairie schooners" to cross the billowy plains piloted by 
bold captains of civilization, who had pitched their tents 
near by. All around was the deep primeval forest. On 
the branches overhead the birds twittered softly while 
building their summer's abode; squirrels leaped joyfully 
from bough to bough, and the fleet-footed deer, "poor, 
(lapoled fools, being native burp^hers of this desert city," 
lifting their heads from the cool brook which babbled b}-. 



fled in terror from their favorite haunt. Here, under the 
greenwood tree, with the blue sky above them and the 
voice of nature in their hearts, the pioneers met to form 
an American government. In these sylvan shades the 
scion of Revolutionary sires again opposed the haughty 
Briton; in this open field cavalier and Puritan met once 
more in bloodless conflict: in freedom's glorious sun- 
shine, a freed negro struck his first vigorous blow at those 
who had so cruelly torn his forefathers from the sunny 
clime of Africa.* A few dusky redmen of the forest, 
looking warlike in their paint and feathers, were inter- 
ested spectators of this strange scene of which they un- 
consciously formed a part. 

The meeting was called to order with Dr. I. I. Bab- 
cock presiding. G. W. Le Breton, acting as secretary, 
read aloud the compact of government. It was then 
voted on, those in favor shouting "aye," and those op- 
posed "no." The vote was almost even, but the motion 
seemed lost. Le Breton called for a division. Everybody 
became excited. Noise and confusion reigned. At this 
crisis Joe Meek, the pioneer explorer and scout of the 
Northwest, sprang forward. As he stood before that 
strange group, with his strong, erect figure drawn to its 
full height, his head thrown back, his black eyes flashing 
and the Indians looking on with ever-increasing amaze- 
ment, the whole scene formed a most striking picture, with 
the dark forest for a background. Waving his hand, Joe 
Meek shouted in his usual spirited manner: "All those 
who favor the government, follow me!" Accordingly 
those favoring the organization followed Meek to the 
right, while those opposed filed to the left. The count 
showed that the compact was carried by the close vote of 
fifty-two against fifty. Freedom had triumphed. 

The provisional government thus organized adopted 
an organic law "until such time as the United States of 
America extend their jurisdiction over us." also providing 
that "There shall be neither slavery nor involuntary serv- 
itude in said territory, other than for punishment of 
crimes whereof the party shall have been duly convicted." 
This provision adopted eighteen years before the Rebel- 
lion, kept Oregon and Washington firm in their devotion 
to the cause of Union and Freedom in the time of direst 
need. Truly, the result of this open-air meeting held in 
the forest wilds of Oregon half a century ago can hardly 
be overestimated. What thoughts must have filled the 
brain of the typical pioneer as he wended his solitary way 
homeward in the deepening dusk of that May evening! 
With his trusty rifle on his shoulder and his faithful dng 
at his side, he followed the many windings of the narrow 



footpath through the darkening forest. Entering the dark 
recesses of the forest dell, he leaned upon the trunk of 
a large fir tree to rest his weary limbs. As he closed his 
tired eyelids the elfin voices of the forest rang in his ears. 
He seemed to hear the fairy footfalls oi the guardian of 
the wood as she waved her w'and about him, and visions 
of the future came and went before his enraptured sight. 
He saw the Northwest peopled by a happy population, 
the beautiful valleys covered with villages, farms and 
factories. Over it all floated the flag of the glorious re- 
united Republic, reminding him strongly of the prophetic 
picture observed by Benjamin Franklin at the Constitu- 
tional convention. The setting sun had long since disap- 
])eared below the horizon, but above liberty's horizon, 
mtjrning was to break anew on this far Western coast 
and before the sun of the Union reached its zenith, the 
day star of our hope was destined to glow with still 
brighter lustre, like "another sun risen on mid-noon." 

*A mulatto named Winslow Anderson was among the early set- 
tlers of the Willamette N'alley. In 1843 "prairie schooners" were lor 
the first time brought all the way from the Missouri River to the 
■'continuous woods where rolls the Oregon." 



DEDICATING THE PACIFIC COAST TO 
FREEDOM. 



Under all circumstances, in peace and in war, the 
American navy has gallantly upheld the dignity and 
power of the United States. Among the most daring of 
this country's naval heroes was Captain Charles Wilkes. 
This distinguished officer explored the coast of Oregon 
and Washington in 1841, and encouraged the earlj' settlers 
in their patriotic efforts to win this region for the great 
Republic. He disapproved of the attempt to organize a 
Pacific republic, advising the Americans to wait until the 
'gf)vernment of the United States should throw its mantle 
over them. The American sentiment was greatly strength- 
ened by his words of hope and cheer. 

In 1841 Captain Wilkes and his merry crew signalized 
the return of our Nation's birthday by holding the first 
Fourth of July celebration on the shores of Puget Sound. 
The place selected for this purpose was Mission Prairie, 
near Fort Nesqually, a trading post of the Hudson's Bay 
Company. 

As the Fourth came on Sunday, the celebration was 
held on the fifth of July. On that morning all was bustle 
and activity on board the ship Vincennes. At nine o'clock 
all the crew was mustered on board in their clean, white 
frocks and trousers, and all, including the marines, were 
soon landed. With music playing and flags Hying, thej' 
marched to the scene of festivity about a mile distant. 
They also carried ashore two brass howitzers with which 
to fire the usual salute. An ox, bought for the ocasion. 
was soon roasted to a turn, the bugle was blown for din- 
ner and all repaired to partake of the barbecue. Captain 
Wilkes says: "By this time the Indians had gathered 
from all quarters and were silently looking on at the novel 
sight, and wistfully regarding the feast which they saw 
going on before them." 

The neat, loose-fitting uniform of the sailors, the 
bright-colored garments of the savages, the rich, green 
shades of the forest, the beautiful blue waters of Puget 
Sound and the patriotic memories belonging to the occa- 
sion, all combined to make this an interesting scene in 
Northwest history. 

After dinner the usual salutes were fired and patriotic 
sentiments were given voice. At sunset they returned to 
the ship in good humor. While passing Fort Nesqually 
they gave three hearty cheers for the American flag and 



waited, sailor-like, for the reply. The British response 
was given by only a few voices, a circumstance which led 
lo many jokes among the seamen. To the English the 
cheer of the sailors was "a cry of defiance and not of fear." 
No wonder their reply was a feeble one! 

In May, 1843, when the people of the region decided 
by a vote of fifty-two against fifty to establi'sh a provis- 
ional government based upon American principles, they 
appointed a committee to draw up the organic act. This 
committee selected July 5 as the day on which the people 
were to meet to pass uoon their charter. However, the 
opposition was still strong, and the Americans decided to 
hold a celebration on the Fourth of July to_strengthen the 
patriotic cause. Rev. Gustavus Hines was chosen orator. 
His speech did not consist of partisan denunciation; it was 
one of the dear, old-fashioned kind. It had its source fn 
the higher springs of patriotism. His theme was the 
Union; his song was of Liberty. His notes rang clear 
and true upon the pure forest air. There may be those 
who would prefer to hear their countrymen shamed rather 
than praised on the natal birthday; but not so the hearty 
frontiersman. The plain and simple words of the speaker 
went straight to the hearts of the pioneers. Mr. Hines 
and many of his listeners were descended from Revo- 
lutionary ancestry, and memories of the sacred past were 
vividly recalled. As the speaker concluded, his words 
took on the warmth and glow of impassioned eloquence. 
"All the weary way from Lexington to Yorktown our 
fathers proved true to the cause of American independ- 
ence. Who that has ever heard the story of that struggle 
trom the lips of a patriot grandfather can falter in de- 
fence of our sacred ria-hts? Though it may be of little 
importance what is said here, let us on the morrow re- 
member the examples and teachings of the Revolutionary 
patriots and our work will be long remembered. 

"When the fathers signed their names to the immortal 
Declaration, they pledged themselves to defend their 
rights with their lives, their fortunes and their sacred 
honor. So let us now carry on their noble work, let us 
dedicate ourselves and our homes to the cause of Liberty 
and Union, and pledge ourselves to support our principles 
with our lives, our fortunes and our sacred honor." 

After the oration, the national hymn "America" was 
sung by the entire audience. As they sang that perfect 
verse where the poet boldly strikes the pure notes of sub- 
lime eloquence and invokes the sympathetic voice of na- 
ture in freedom's behalf, the sturdy pioneers felt pro- 
foundly moved: 



"Let music swell tlie breeze, 
And ring from all the trees 
Sweet Freedom's song; 
Let mortal tongues awake, 
Let all that breathe partake. 
Let rocks their silence break. 
The sound prolongl" 

And rock and rill, mountain and forest, all gladly pro- 
longed the joyful sound. 

Thus inspired, the Americans on the morrow won an- 
other bloodless victory over the Briton, and the pro- 
visional government was soon in successful operation. 
Thus freedom triumphed over royalty, and this region 
was peaceably conquered for the Union. Truly "Peace 
hath her victories not less renowned than war." 



Mr. Hines was descended from Stephen Hopkins, one of the 
"signers." The orator was elected chairman of the meeting of July 5, 
1843. 



RAISING THE BANNER OF FREEDOM IN 
THE NORTHWEST. 



"Aye, tear her tattered ensign down! 

Long has it waved on high; 
x\nd many an eye has danced to see 

That banner in the sky!" 

History records no grander achievement than the 
glorious victories won by America's naval heroes in be- 
half of the starry emblem of our great Republic. From 
the eventful morning on which Paul Jones first flung 
Freedom's ensign to the expectant breeze, or when the 
undaunted Perry bore his banner in triumph from his 
burning Hagship. to that dav when the noble Farragut, 
while lashed to the rigging of the Hartford, with the flag 
Hnating above him, achieved glory for himself and his 
gallant crew, the log-book of the American navy speaks 
of noble deeds. The memories aroused by the mere men- 
tion of such names as Lawrence. Decatur, Hull, Foote, 
DuPont and David Porter should remind us of the im- 
portance of a strong navy. 

But not alone in the "purple testaments of bleeding 
war" are the victories of the American sailor inscribed. 
American commerce. American spirit and American cizil- 
ization have followed the American flag on the trackless 
paths of stormy oceans, from port to port and from sea 
to sea. Into whatever harbor our gallant tars have carried 
the starry emblem, they have also taken that love of lib- 
erty and freedom for which it stands. 

When Captain Charles Wilkes, of the United States 
navy, appeared off the coast of Oregon and Washington 
in 1841 his hearty assurance that the government would 
soon extend its jurisdiction over them seemed like a 
message of hope and cheer wafted by winds of ocean from 
the far Atlantic coast. 

In 1846 the United States schooner Shark, commanded 
by Lieutenant Howison, was sent to explore the coast 
of Oregon. Entering the Columbia River, the Shark 
reached Fort Vancouver July 24, 1846. Her officers and 
men were hailed with delight bv the patriots of the North- 
west. In June of that year a treaty had been completed 
by the United States and England which finally designated 
the fortj^-ninth parallel of north latitude as the northwest 
boundary line. But as the news of this treaty had not yet 
reached the Pacific coast, the ill-feeling between British 
and Americans was becoming hourly more critical. As 



there is no greater contrast than that existing between a 
British officer and the American frontiersman, it required 
the best efforts of Lieutenant Howison to prevent blood- 
shed. 

The Sliark remained at \'ancouvcr until August 23, 
when she left for the mouth of the Columbia. She was 
wrecked while crossing the bar on the tenth of September. 
Like the gallant Cumberland, she sank beneath the waves 
with her colors still flying. Her flag was all that the 
sailors rescued from the sinking ship. 

By this time news of the treaty of 1846 had just 
reached the Pacific coast, and as it was known that the 
protecting power of the United States would soon be ex- 
tended over this region Lieutenant Howison presented 
this flag to the provisional Governor, George Abernethj'. 
with the following eloquent letter: "To display this 
national emblem, and cheer our citizens of this distant ter- 
ritory bv its presence was a principal object of the Shark's 
visit to the Columbia, and it appears to me, therefore, 
highly proper that it should henceforth remain with you 
as a memento of parental regard from the general gov- 
ernment. With the fullest confidence that it will be re- 
ceived and appreciated as such by our countrymen, I do 
myself the honor of transmitting the flag to your address: 
nor can I omit to express my gratification and pride that 
this relic of my late command should be emphatically the 
first United States flag to wave over the undisputed and 
thoroughly American Territory of Oregon." 

Governor Abernethy gracefully received the starry 
flag in behalf of the pioneers in his usual patriotic manner, 
saying: "We will fling it to the breeze on every suitable 
occasion, and rejoice under the emblem of our country's 
glory, sincerely hoping that the 'star-spangled banner' 
may ever wave over this portion of the United States." 

On that glorious morn when liberty's emblem was 
first unfolded to the virgin breeze of primeval Oregon, all 
plans of a Pacific republic were swept aside. The ensign 
seemed to retain within its folds some of the invigorating, 
purifying power of the sea breeze in which it had so fondly 
floated for so many years. As free as the wild waves of 
ocean, as pure as its freshest winds, as terrible as Nep- 
tune's mightiest storms, it purged the Northwest of all 
taint of treason and became a continual inspiration for 
an exalted patriotism. 



ESTHER SHORT AND THE REDCOATS. 



As the lime drew nigh when the Treaty of Joint Oc- 
cupancy was to expire, Great Britain put forth great ex- 
ertions to have the Columbia River recognized as the 
boundary line between her American possessions and the 
Oregon Territory. The oest land in the Willamette Valley 
having been taken, the American home-builders began to 
push across the Columbia, as they had a perfect right to 
do, with the intention of settling upon the north side of 
that stream. This brought them into still closer contact 
with the British element, and increased the bitter feeling 
existing between them, until, in some instances, it took on 
all the intensity of border warfare. 

During those days the scenes presented within the 
stockade of the Hudson's Bay Company's fort at Van- 
couver, was replete with variety and romance. There was 
the French-Canadian trapoer with his buckskin breeches, 
and his picturesque cloak carelessly flung over his shoul- 
ders, engaged in animated conversation with a party of 
voyageurs who had just returned in their canoes from 
the headwaters of the Snake River: before the company's 
store, a large building in the center of the inclosure, a 
group composed of stalwart redmen of the forest, dark- 
skinned Kanakas from the far-oflf Hawaiian Isles, and 
plaided Highlanders from the mountains of Scotland, gave 
undivided attention to a venturesome courier-de-bois who 
was describing his lates't travels among the frozen regions 
of the north. An American settler paused while passing 
out of the main gateway to shout a ringing defiance to 
the commandant, w-ho had threatened him with violence 
unless he retraced his footsteps to the south side of the 
Columbia. 

Alarmed b}' the growing frequency of such demon- 
strations, the commandant ordered that the ponderous 
gate should be more securely barred at nightfall, and that 
the drawbridge should be raised promptly at the set of 
sun. From the tower in the northwest corner of the 
palisades the guard peered v^'ith greater vigilance into the 
gathering darkness. It may not be out of place to add 
that the writer's father was often rudely awakened at the 
witching hour of midnight by the sentry's shrill cry: 
"Twelve o'clock and all is well!" The bastion was sur- 
mounted by two small cannon, and surrounded by a nar- 
row plank walk. Upon this short beat, the guard, who 



was frequently a Scotchman of the redoubtable Douglas 
clan, would march to and fro during the weary watches 
'if tile night. 

"Above the gloomy portal arch, 
The sturdy warden kept his march. 
Low-humming as he paced along 
Some ancient border-gathering song." 

But even this stronghold of British influence was 
destined to be invaded by the sturdy immigrants from the 
United States. A young settler named Henry William- 
son was one of the earliest Americans to brave the wrath 
of the Hudson's Bay Company by staking out a claim 
upon the present site of Vancouver. This venturesome 
home-builder had emigrated from the State of Indiana, 
and upon leaving home he had placed a ring upon the 
finger of a fair damsel who prcimised to remain true to 
her gallant knight-errant during his wanderings in the 
West. After choosing a dwelling place in some pleasant 
vale on the Pacific Coast, he was to return to take hither 
his plighted bride. Impelled by such high hopes as these, 
this bold pioneer scaled the rufrcred mountain peaks and 
crossed the burning deserts, until he paused one glorious 
morning upon the banks of the majestic River of the 
West. With a lightsome ballad on his lips, and music in 
his heart sweeter than the blithe carol of the birds among 
the leafy branches, he began the task of building a home 
in this vast wilderness. To a French-Canadian boating 
song, wafted to him from a party of voyageurs gliding 
down the stream, he fitted the words of his own heart — 
words resonant with hope and love: 

THE YOUNG SETTLER'S LOVE-SONG. 

Loud rings the axe of the woodsman brave, 
In his forest home by Columbia's wave. 
On this chosen spot he builds his cot, 
With logs from the evergreen tree. 
Hewn with thoughts of thee, Mary, 
Hewn with thoughts of thee. 

Blithe is the lay of the settler free. 

Resounding o'er river and lea. 

.\t his daily toil on the virgin soil, 

'Neath the shade of the evergreen tree. 

He sings of love and thee, Mary, 

He sings of love and thee. 

Despite the numerous obstacles thrown in his way 
by the British, he erected his log cabin and had a portion 
f>f his claim laid off into town lots by Surveyor P. W. 
Crawford, the father of W. P. and E. G. Crawford, two of 
A'ancouver's leading business men at the present time. At 



length all was ready for the coming of the bride, and our 
youthful pioneer journeyed all the way back to the 
Hoosier state only to find that the form which he longed 
to clasp to his breast had lain for months within the 
tomb. The bright hopes which had lured his eager feet 
across the dreary plain were not less illusive than the 
mirage or phantom lake toward which he had vainly has- 
tened to quench his parching thirst. The broken-hearted 
lover retraced his weary footsteps back to his forest home. 
But it no longer possessed any charms for him. He wan- 
dered about aimlessly until he joined the Argonauts of 
'49, and was finally lost to our view among the gold fields 
of California. 

The ne.xt American to invade this region was Amos 
]\I. Short, who came here with his family in 1845. This 
intrepid settler and his faithful wife. Esther Short, were 
true types of the pioneer veomanry of the Northwest. 
They were coldly received by the officials of the great 
fur trading company, who refused to sell them either food 
or clothing so long as they persisted in their intention 
of erecting their home altar here as citizens of the great 
Republic. To those who came as neutrals, these "King 
George men" were the best of friends; to those who came 
as American citizens, they were the bitterest of enemies. 

Undeterred by this spirit of hostilitv. the newcomers 
staked out their claim and erected their humble log cabin. 
While the husband was cutting the rails for a fence 
around their little clearing the wife overhauled the spin- 
ning wheel and was soon busily engaged spinning the wool 
for their home-made garments. Through the open door- 
way she could hear the ring of her husband's axe and the 
sweet warblings of the birds among the trees. The broad 
Columbia rolled in majesty at her feet; in the distance 
that sentinel mountain. Hood, matched his snow-crowned 
crest against the fleecy whiteness of the clouds. In tune 
to the grand scene about her, and in tnne to the whirling 
of her spindle, her heart burst forth into involuntary song. 
It was a song such as pioneer women were wont to sing 
as they went about their daily tasks. Into it were care- 
lessly woven scenes and events of every-day life. In it 
were blended the gay measure of some sprightly ballad and 
the solemn notes of a relieious hymn; now free and wild 
as the swollen current of Burnt Bridge Creek as it tore 
away the dam by Priedmore's old mill — now soft and 
low as that same stream's gentlest murmur when soothed 
by summer's shallow flow. 



SONG OF THE PIONEER HOUSEWIFE, 



\\ c will build us a luuiie in tlie forest wild, 

Wild the wild-iosc blooms and the fir's kind shade, 

\\ here sweeps our broad river so grand and so mild. 

And trom our cot in the leafy glade, 

W e see the fleet deer as he rushes by. 

Look! He leaps in the stream and swims from the shore, 

Pursued by the huntsmen and hounds in full cry; 

The oars splash, the rifles flash, the deer's joys are o'er. 

What though the liriton lays claim to this l^.nd. 

And threatens to drive us from hearth and from home. 

In vain they molest us with fire and brand, 

I-rom this favored place they shall ne'er make us roam. 

We will stand firm 'mid all trials and dangers, 

And cheerfully sing our cares to beguile: 

"We are pilgrims, we are strangers, 

\\ e can tarry, we can tarry but a while." 

But the Hudson's Bay Company was not content with 
Uie mere withholding of suppHes from this American set- 
tler. They tried to discourage him by sending parties of 
their employees to pull down his fences, and commit other 
like depredations. On one occasion when Mr. Short had 
gone to the American settlement at Oregon City to pur- 
chase needful supplies, a party of the Company's em- 
ployees placed Mrs. Short and her children upon a bat- 
teau which they then pushed adrift into the current of 
the Columbia with but a single oar on board. It was only 
by the utmost skill and exertion that the poor mother 
was enabled to paddle the cumbersome craft to the shore 
and save herself and children from their perilous position. 

Upon his return, Mr. Short announced his firm de- 
termination to defend his hearth and home at all hazards. 
So when the next crowd attempted to pull down his fence, 
he loaded his rifle and fired uoon them, killing an officer 
and a servant of the company. For this deed, committed 
in defense of his home, Air. Short was arrested and taken 
before Justice Petrain, father of C. A. Petrain, now a 
prominent attorney of Portland. After an examination, 
Mr. Short was taken to Oregon City to be tried by Judge 
Lancaster, of the Oregon provisional government. He 
was, however, finall yreleased without trial. 

During the enforced absence of the home-builder the 
British prepared to renew their work of destruction. A 
small squad of men were sent out under the lead of a 
French-Canadian named FiCeatte, with instructions to 
continue the tearing down of the pioneer's rail fence. 
FiCeatte was an adventurous courier-de-bois who had 
been in the employ of the company for many years. Under 
British command he had roamed the Western wilds from 
Montreal to Fort Vancouver. He therefore represented 
the aggressive spirit and prowess of Great Britain as truly 



as did those redcoats who were so badly beaten by John 
Stark and his "Green' Mountain" boys at Bennington. 
.Moreover, he was sent out by Governor Ogden, the son 
of a British tory who had been driven to Halifax b}' the 
patriots of the Revolution. When Esther Short saw this 
little army ap])roaching her castle she became as indignant 
as did the Boston schoolboys when the redcoats under 
General Gage interfered with their games by breaking up 
the ice on Boston common. Like those free-spirited lads, 
she felt that she had suffered from British cruelty long 
enough. Like them, also, she was determined to bear 
their tyranny no longer. So just as FiCeatte put his 
hands upon ilie toi)inost rail and began to wrench it from 
its place, by a deft swing of her arm she struck him with 
the palm ni her hand a stinging blow across the cheek, 
r.efore he realized it. the astonished fur-trapper was lying 
on the green sward at his conqueror's feet. As soon as 
he could gather himself tf)gether the abashed French- 
Canadian beat a hasty retreat to the fort, where he gave 
the commandant. Governor Peter Ogden. a graphic ac- 
count of his disastrous encounter. During the recital of 
his trusty couri^r-de-bois who had never before suffered 
defeat, the sides of the gallant Governor fairly shook with 
laughter. At its conclusion, with a merry twinkle in his 
eve. he sagely remarked: "1 guess we had better give il 
up; we can never ht)pe to win against such brave women 
as tiiat." And Mr. FiCeatte himself, who still resides at 
X'ancouver at the ripe age of eighty-five, laughs heartily 
when he tells the story of his humiliating defeat. 

Governor Ogden was a brave, generous-hearted man. 
lo whom a petty warfare against settlers and their wives 
was extremely distasteful. This incident taught him that 
the incoming tide of American yeomanry would maintain 
their rights with all the bravery of their forefathers. He 
was wise enough to foresee that a struggle against such 
a band of determined men and women could have but one 
result. He was candid enough to admit his defeat, and 
withdraw gracefully from the contest. 

The salutory lesson taught by this sturdy American 
matron was most wholesome in its effect. She did not 
ride forth to battle, like Joan of Arc, encased in shining 
l)reastplate of steel. She was panoplied onlj^ in the armor 
of her own righteousness. Other weapon had she none, 
save her good right arm and the sublime justice of her 
cause. Her victory loses none of its grandeur because 
unaccompanied by the roar of artillery, the flash of sabers, 
or the cheers of victorious legions. Her army was the 
brood of children at her knee; her banners, the foliage of 
evergreen trees waving in the breeze overhead. Standing 



with uplifted hand, amid the rich wild flowers and the 
swaying grass, the rough log cabin behind her, the rude 
rail fence before, she presents as impressive a picture as 
that engraved 'b}' our forefathers upon the storied bridge 
at Concord. 

\^ancouver's coat-of-arms consists of a picture of 
Mount Hood, with the Columbia River in the foreground. 
This scene may be claimed in common by other towns 
in this neighborhood, and commemorates no achievements 
of America's heroes. Would it not be more appropriate 
to change this for one renresenting our Joan of Arc in 
the act of defying and putting to flight the hirelings of 
Great Britain's wealth and prowess? This would con- 
tinually remind us that the pioneer women of the North- 
west displayed the same heroism in the defense of their 
firesides as did their grandmc^hers in the days of Wash- 
ington and Molly Pitcher. Then in j^ears to come some 
fair reader of this humble narrative, as she sits by the 
evening fire with her grandchildren on her knee, will re- 
late to the listening little one a tradition not less inspir- 
ing than "Grandfather's Tale of Yorktown," the thrilling 
story of Esther Short and her victory o^ver the British 
redcoats. 



Note. — Years ago one of the writer's greatest joys was the an- 
nual visit to his grandparents' old log cabin, on the banks ol the 
Columbia, near St. Helens, Oregon. In the evening grandmother would 
bring her spinning wheel to the fireside, where she would sing and 
spin. Her singing was almost invariably concluded with that well- 
known hymn: "I'm a pilgrim, I'm a stranger." 

The hunting scene described in the song was witnessed by the 
writer during one of these visits. 

Priedmore's old mill on Burnt Bridge Creek was built by one 
of the early French-Canadian trappers. Portions of the sills still remain. 

It may be of interest to the admirers of Walter Scott to know 
that Sir James Douglas, one of the bravest bearing the dreaded Douglas 
name, was for a time the commandant at Fort Vancouver. 



A PIONEER WITNESS TREE. 



Of all the gifts of nature few are more beneficent, 
Ixiuntiful or beautiful than the forest tree. It not only 
enriches mankind, but adorns the landscape as well. It 
absorbs many poisonous gases and purifies the surround- 
ing atmosphere. It cleanses the air that loiters to pla^- 
among its branches, and sends it, loaded with fragrance 
and sweetness, on its joyous way. Its graceful foliage 
shelters the nesting birds, while it lends a charm to. their 
sweetest songs. 

As the loveliest of ferns and mosses thrive within our 
shady groves, so many of our most glorious traditions are 
inseparably associated with the tree of the forest. The 
tree is the natural friend of freedom. Tyranny, corruption 
and impurity need never expect a home in the forest. 
Their tainted and deformed imps would be bereft of all 
power by the purity and freshness of the breeze that rus- 
tles through the scented grove, and stifled by the wild 
sweetness of the woodland melodies. It was in complete 
harmony with nature's plan for William Penn to con- 
clude his treaty of peace and friendship with the Indians 
beneath the kindly shade of a forest monarch, and for 
Wadsworth to entrust the Charter of Connecticut's Lib- 
erties to the constant heart of a stout old oak. 

At the foot of Main street in the City of Vancouver. 
Washingon, may be seen a large cottonwood tree, which 
has an honored place in the early chronicles of our com- 
monwealth. It has boldly reared its crest just upon the 
bank of the broad Columbia, and its antlercd branches 
stand out in clear relief against that silvery stream. In the 
records of Clarke County this aged giant is officially 
known by the poetic name of a "Balm of Gilead" tree, a 
name that seems to light up that musty account of the 
deeds of the "rude forefathers of the hamlet" with the 
soft glow of poetry and romance. During the present 
century this forest monarch has beheld many strange 
vicissitudes. From its foot the savage tribes embarked in 
their canoes on many a warlike expedition; the voyageurs 
of the Hudson's Bay Company moored their batteaus near 
its roots when they came to establish a trading post here 
in 1824; while the humble American settler landed bejieath 
its protecting shade when he came to battle with the Brit- 
ish for the possession of the soil. 

From 1840 to ISoO that powerful organization, the 
Hudson's Bay Company, exerted its utmost influence to 
deter citizens of the United States from settling on land 
north of the Columbia River. The ofhcials of this despotic 
company succeeded in driving away all American settlers 



uiuil iItc arrival nf thai dauntless pioneer, Amos 'Si. Short, 
and his orave wife, Esther Short, ignoring all the insolent 
threats of the British, ^iv. Sliort proceeded to erect his 
log cabin, and stake out his donation land claim, selecting 
the magniticent Balm of Gilead as his witness-tree and 
point of beginning. This tree thus stood on the border- 
land between two contending powers, and marked the 
boundary of the British company's possessions from the 
land of the American pioneer. 

But it was far more than a mere landmark. It 
marked the "point of beginning" to active resistance from 
the Americans to the haughty aggression of the British. 
l*>om the moment that Amos Short sunk his gleaming 
a.\e into that noble cottonwood and marked its trunk with 
the blaze of liberty, the power of the British steadily de- 
clined. That act dedicated the tree and the surrounding 
region to the cause of freedom. The bold yeoman had 
taken up his claim in conformity to the land laws of the 
United States, and in defending his property he was 
upholding the honor and disnitv (if his country's emblem, 
lie maintained his rights with all the bravery of an Amer- 
ican citizen. When the Hudson's Bay Company sent a 
jiarty "f men to drive him away trom his home, he took 
down his musket and went forth to meet them. After 
fair warning, he fired upon them, killing an officer and a 
servant of the company, while the others retreated in utter 
dismay. After a few more attempts to dislodge him. the 
British desisted, leaving him to occupy his land in peace. 
Other settlers came pouring in. and the entire region was 
sdon in undisputed possession of the .\mericans. 

In the dusty, time-stained chronicles in the auditor's 
tiffice the description of this pioneer's homestead is re- 
corded in the customary legal style, as follows: "Begin- 
ning at a large Balm of Gilead tree on the nprth bank 
I if the Columbia River, and running thence." etc. 

From that Balm of Gilead liberty's lines have been 
extended in all directions, until the broad principles of 
American Freedom and Justice now enfold this entire 
commonwealth within their kindly grasp; for the Tree 
of Liberty is not a dwarfed shrub frowing upon Tyranny's 
blasted heath but a noble giant. And the blaze of Free- 
dom which the settler cut upon its trunk has broadened 
and deepened with age. 

This historic witness-tree still stands upon the bank 
of the storied Columbia, the warm sap flowing freely 
through its lusty veins. Its rich, green leaves are as 
bright and fresh as the principles of eternal justice; its 
soft, snowy bloom not less spotless than the sacred cause 
of Truth and Right. May it long thrive — a living memo- 
rial of the past — a venerable title-deerl of American in- 
dustry, courage and glory! 



HANK PEARSON'S RIDE. 



THEME. 



At the beginning of the Indian uprising under Chiefs 
Kaniiakin and Kanasket, in November of 1855, Governor 
Stevens was near Fort Benton, Montana, attending the 
Blackfoot council. As the people needed their gallant 
leader in this great emergency, Hank Pearson volunteered 
to hasten onward with the dispatch. 

His course led him through five hundred miles of 
hostile land filled with lurking savages, and over rcnigh, 
snow-covered mountains. When one horse was worn out 
he jumped upon another and pressed on wtihout pausing 
for rest. When he reached his destination his clothes 
were frozen stiff to his body and he was so weak withal 
that he had to be lifted from the horse and carried into 
the house. Pearson lived at Vancouver, and was widely 
known for his expert horsemanship, having served as a 
courier on many occasions. 

While this dangerous ride did not result in the rider's 
instant death, as related in the verse, it greatly hastened 
his untimely end; and the story of his heroic self-sacrifice 
remains a poetic truth. 

Among the famous rides of history none are more 
thrilling than this, and it is rendered doubly precious by 
its associations with the name of our heroic Governor. 
Isaac I. Stevens. 

A COURIKR OK THE WEST. 

"Heaven's cherubin. horsed upon the sightless couriers of the air. 
Shall blow the horrid deed in every eye." 

THE WARNING. 

Around the firesides of the West lingers this tale of a hero brave, 

Wlio breathed his last in storied past, while striving human life to save. 

During tlie fall of '55 on a dark and stormy night, 

Adown the swift Columbia, like an eagle in its flight. 

Darted tlie light canoe of friendly Indian Jack 

To warn the people at The Dalles of a dreaded niglit attack. 

The startled villagers for self-defense prepared, 

Then called for a volunteer, for one who freely dared 

To carry the news to Stevens about the war at liand. 

Through five hundred lonely miles, where skulked the savage band. 

Then rose that gallant yeoman. Hank Pearson, bold and strong. 

And started on that mountain ride so dangerous and long. 

Not his the classic face, not his the rythmic name 

That sculinor on marble loves to trace, or minstrel softly gives to fame. 

But fitter for him by far, is granite's rude, enduring heart. 

And sweeter rings his name afar, when comrade sings his noble part. 



THE RIDE. 

Fast lie rode by Columbia's stream, 

(niided by day-star or moon's pale beam; 

By day and night he hastened on, 

Passing Celilo, whence had gone 

All the braves of the fishing village, 

The last to leave for war's rude pillage. 

As he neared Walla Walla's lovely vale, 

He spied a ploughman in the dale; 

Telling his tale so fierce and new, 

He asked for a horse to carry him through. 

"Take 'Antelope,' a steed more true 

Ne'er from the meadow dashed the dew." 

Springing upon the gallant black, 

He breathed his name, the rein held slack; 

Forward flew the quivering steed. 

Straining his limbs to their utmost speed. 

Not faster the startled deer is borne 

When soundeth anear the huntsman's horn;. 

Not surer flies the unerring dart 

Seeking its rest in that trembling heart. 

Leaving behind Walla Walla's plain, 

He dashed on through the Coeiir d'Alene. 

THE .\RRIV.\L AND THE PASSING. 

So without pause by night or day, 

He rode until one morning gray, 

Spattered with variation of every ground, 

That 'twixt The Dalles and Benton is found. 

He was lifted tenderly from the back 

Of the gallant but all breathless black; 

And was carried in through the open door 

Straight to the side of our war governor, 

Then striving to rise, bold Pearson spoke — 

Though his words by frequent gasps were broke- 

"Kamiakin and fierce Kanasket 

Have raised on high the bloody hatchet; 

For their leader's return, your people pray, 

Make haste, brave Stevens, haste away!" 

In the arms of friends, his last words said, 

The messenger falls with a drooping head; 

His eyelids close, his deed are o'er. 

The courier will ride on steeds no more. 

Softly our Roman his orders told: 

"Keep tender vigils o'er hero bold; 

My people are calling, I hasten on. 

Id pause not now for my own dear son." 

Stevens sped on to reach Hell Gate, 
Where Spotted Eagle impatient did wait 

To safely guide the Governor, 

(~)'er mountain path to seat of war; 

Where he led his men in gallant fight. 
Till peace soon followed the war's dark night. 



A CLOSING STRAIN. 

Still by the hearth-stones of the West 

I^ingers this tale of a hero brave, 

Who breathed his last in a storied past. 

While striving human life to save. 

Still whisper gray sires 'round hearths at home. 

That sometimes in the weird moonlight, 
A. phantom rider on horse afoam. 
Comes and vanishes in the night; 

A sign that once more in time of need. 

He will ride, as of yore, his gallant steed. 

The tale is told, the hearth is cold, 

But the heart throbs warm for the hero bold; 

And ever may his memory last 

\\ hile hearts are thrilled by tales of the past, 

■'For whetlier on the scaffold high, 

. Or in the battle's van, 
The fittest place for man to die. 
Is where he dies for man." 

FOOTNOTES. 

"My people are calling, I hasten on, 
I'd pause not now for my own dear son.'" 
"Stevens sped on to reach Hell Gate, 
Where Spotted Eagle impatient did wait." 

In describing the death of General Stevens, the New 
Vork Tribune of September 5, 1862. says: "A moment 
after Stevens seized the colors, his son Hazzard fell 
wounded, and cried to his father that he was hurt. With 
a glance backward, that Roman father said, 'I can't attend 
you now, Hazzard; Corporal Thompson, see to my boy.'" 

That was his last farewell; a few moments afterward 
he lay cold and still on the field of Chantilly, his fingers 
still clasping, like bands of steel, the flag he loved so well. 

The Nez Perce chiefs. Spotted Eagle and Three 
Feathers, with seventy followers, acted as bodyguard for 
Governor Stevens on his perilous return. 

Spotted Eagle and his band proved faithful to the 
whites throughout the war. and fought gallantly with 
them in several engagements. 



THE CASTLE ON THE PLAINS. 



It is hard to believe that, but a generation ago, Clarke 
County was on the very verge of the Northwest frontier, 
and as an outpost of American civilization was contin- 
ually beset by all the dangers and trials of a border com- 
munity. In these quiet, "piping da)'S of peace," we hear 
little of those troublous times, when the hurrying mes- 
senger would draw rein before the cabin of some lone 
frontiersman to tell him of the latest Indian massacre, 
and then dash on to warn other remote settlements. At 
such a time there was surely as much need of haste as 
when the messenger of Rhoderick Dhue was dispatched to 
carry the signal for the gathering of the clan. Whether 
the courier was a white settler ridmg a hardy cayuse pony 
or a friendly Indian runner, his feet clad in moccasins 
ornamented with beads glistening like dew in the morn- 
ing sun, the words of Walter Scott come unbidden to the 
lips: 

"Speed, Malise, speed; the dun deer's hide 
On fleeter foot was never tied!" 

As the Scottish clansmen quickly gathered at Clan- 
rick Mead, so did the frontiersmen of this county hastily 
meet at some central locality to prepare for the defense 
of their families. In time of great stress, the home- 
builders quickly became home-defenders. While we read 
thrilling tales of border warfare in Scotland, we are 
scarcely aware of the stirring scenes which have been 
enacted in our own neighborhood. It was quite by an 
accident that the writer first heard of the old fort at 
Fourth Plain. 

When the news of the Indian depredations reached 
the settlers of Fourth Plain, early in 1856, they deter- 
mined not to flee to town for protection, but to erect a 
stockade near their own homes. Trees were felled and 
the logs were hauled to a small hill on the place of Mr. 
Geer, where it had been decided the castle should be 
built. The fort consisted of a stockade about sixteen feet 
high, enclosing about half an acre of ground, and was 
surrounded by a small trench. Within the enclosure and 
against the walls of the fort, a dozen or more log cabins 
were built, leaving quite an open space in the center. This 
open court served as a drilling place for the embattled 
farmers, as well as a playground for the children. 



To this castle the freeholders of the Plain came with 
their families when they heard of the attack of the In- 
dians upon the Cascade blockhouse, in March, 1856, and 
within these friendly battlements they remained until 
July. Their commander was CaDtain Richard Covington, 
who drew quite a good picture of Fort Vancouver in 1855. 

Tradition has it that Mr. Covington possessed the 
first organ ever brought into Clarke County, and was wont 
to entertain his guests by playing upon the violin, while 
his wife accompanied him on the organ. It is said that 
one of their most frequent visitors in 1853 was Lieut. 
U. S. Grant, who thought naught of the six-mile ride on 
the lonely trail that led from Vancouver to the Plain. 

Among the settlers who brought their families to the 
iuTt for protection were Walter Maybrayv John and 
Charles Bird, Valentine, John and Jacob Proebstel, Rich- 
ard McCary, John Bersch and Thomas Nerton. Sentries 
kept watch by night, and sometimes scouting parties 
were sent out to keep the Indians at a distance. In the 
morning the settlers went forth to work, carrying their 
rifles upon their shoulders. Though no attack was made 
upon them, the yeomanry of the Plain showed that they 
possessed the courage to defend their homes and were 
equal to any emergency. 

Instead of being the scene of bloodshed and death, the 
fort was a place of life and birth, for there Henry Bersch 
was born. June 11, 1856. 

After the people had returned to their homes, a term 
of school was taught at the fort, and it was also used as a 
place for religious services. Thus, within those walls 
which it was feared would resound with the war-whoop 
of the redmen, the yeomen and their families united in 
singing the sweet songs of Zion; while from those battle- 
ments, erected as a defense against a savage foe arose 
the supplications of His people to the great Jehovah, im- 
ploring divine protection against their most insidious foe. 
the common enemy of man. 

The fort and buildings are now completely obliterated 
and have become only a dim tradition of the past. The 
land once occupied by this grim monument of war is now 
covered with flourishing fruit trees. This is another 
virtual fulfillment of that beautiful prophecy: "Their 
spears shall be fashioned into ploughshares and their 
swords into pruning hooks." 



BALLAD OF THE BATTLE-GROUND. 



THEME. 



At the beginning of the Indian war of 1855, the Klick- 
itat Indians were conveyed from their homes on the Cath- 
lapoodle or Lewis River to the old fort at Vancouver. 
This was done to prevent them from being led into war 
by the emissaries of Kansaket, the hostile chief. As the 
regulars had been sent east of the Cascade mountains, the 
fort was garrisoned by company "A." \^ancouver volun- 
teers, commanded by Captain Strong. 

These were joined by a company of Oregon trappers 
under Captain Xewell. But the greater part of these two 
companies were afterward sent away, leaving only about 
thirty men. 

As everything seemed peaceful here, these were also 
preparing to embark on the steamer Belle for the seat of 
war, when it was discovered that the friendly Klickitats 
had "folded their tents like the Arabs and as silently stole 
away." They were soon overtaken and promised to re- 
turn if given time to mourn for their chief, Umtux, who 
had just died and whom they, wished to bur}'- in secret. 

The whites trusted them and came back alone. For 
this they were severely criticised on their return, some of 
the impulsive women presenting them with a bundle of 
feminine apparel as a proper costume. The women were 
deeply in earnest; with them it was too serious a matter 
for an idle jest. 

But as the Indians kept their pledge and returned, 
all unpleasant words now "lie in the deep bosom of the 
ocean buried," while only loving memories remain. The 
snows of forty years have covered with a mantle of love 
all the errors of that sacred past, and the alchemy of time 
has changed anger's base alloy into purest gold. So the 
tradition which has come down to us as a relic of by- 
gone davs should be preserved with all its strength and 
i)eauty unimpaired. And though these verses are weak 
and poor, yet the story may be of interest to some. 

This tale was first told me by an old settler as we 
sat around the fire one winter's evening. He has since 
passed away; "for him no more the blazing hearth shall 
burn," but to hear it as he told it — his graphic words, his 
dramatic gestures, his flashing eye and his hearty laugh 
at the close- — ah. that was poetry! 



VK !'.. M.LAI) O!" OLD XAXCOUVLR LOWX, 

THE FLIGHT AND PURSUIT. 

List to this dim tradition old, 

As told me by a pioneer bold; 

'Twas in November^ of 55, 

The Klickitat Indians, like a hive 

Of bees, were gathered at the fort 

A ear old Vancouver village 

To keep them safe from war and pillage 

All went well till late one night, 

;/ was found the Indians had taken flight; 

v\ ould they join Kanasket savage. 
And aid in war's rapine and ravage'" 
Quickly did Strong and Newell then 
Pursue with thirty mounted men. 
ihe trusty scouts the foe soon found 
At a place since called the Battle Ground. 

THE COUNCIL FIRE. 

The time of day was sitkum-sun, 

i'or half the heavenly course was run ■ 

/-■ • r*^?""*^'' ^'^^ ^^^ promptlv planned. 
Chief Lmtux, of the savage band 
iirave Newell and his aid, DulVce, 
,VM? 'yi^es of mountain trappers free: 
Uith Strong, and Sergeant Hathaway, 
Worn yeomanry of company "A" 
Spreading blankets on the eround 
1 hey formed a group the blaze around. 
iXewell then asked the chieftain bold 
lo come in quiet to the fold. 
Umtux said some treach'rous knaves 
Had spread false tales among his braves- 
Kut now, all thoughts of warfare o'er 
Ihey would return to Columbia's shore. 
He seized a coal of living light 
To place in Friendship's pipe so bright 
As eich one blew a breath of Love, 
Tw^as wafted by angel wings above; 
And as the incense rose in air. 
All hate and anger vanished there. 
Ihe meeting o'er, with smiling face 
Lach one resumed his former place. 

THE DISCOVERY AND THE RETURN. 

Tvvo scouts were started back to tell 
The anxious town-folk all was well; 
But as quickly on they push. 
Beside a withered hazel bush. 
Lying lifeless on the plain 
They find Chief Umtux arrow slain. 
Back to camp they haste with fright. 
And tell brave Strong the dreadful sight 

Who volunteers the tribe to tell'" 
l^orward sprang bold Isaac LaBelle, 
Bared his breast to savage foe. 
And briefly told his tale of woe. 
Though wails and threats were mingled loud, 
the trapper soothed the tearful crowd; 
At his kind words they wiped their tears. 
So touched by sun, snow disappears. 



The trapper his ravage friends embraeccT, 
Then back to camp his steps retraced, 
(^^nly a short time had gone by, 
When Indian messenger came nigh; 
At him a paleface aimed his brand, 
A comrade knocked it from his hand. 
The brave was trusty Indian Jack, 
He said the redmen would go back, 
Jf given one day to show their grief 
For brave Umtux, their fallen chief. 
'Twas given; the men with hostages left, 
While the Klickitats mourned, of chief bereft. 
As they buried their gallant warrior, 
"And no man knoweth his sepulcher." 

THE klickitats' LAMENT. 

"Gone is Umtux, gone forever! 

Xo more down the Western river. 

Where he oft the wild deer slew, 

Shall he dash in light canoe; 

He now rides his fleet cayuse 

On hunting grounds of Memeloose." 

For happy Isle of Memaloose." 

You have crossed the darkened river. 

No more to fight in battle for us, 

Xor sound with us dread war-whoop chorus; 

Thou leavest squaw and dear papiioose, 

On hunting grounds of Memaloose." 

First rose the requiem loud and shrill, 

Chanted on vale and lonely hill; 

Its closing cadence of deep woe 

Sank to a murmur soft and low. 

The music borne by passing gale. 

Sounds faint and sweet adown the dale. 

THE matrons' gift. 

Knowing full well the tribe would follow, 

The men marched back o'er hill and hollow. 

l-"ast flew the news about the town 

Of what was called the squaws' back-down. 

"What! let free those wild redmen?" 

Short time for explanation then 

Was allowed by angry dames of village. 

They thought of homes exposed to pillage; 

And gath'ring apron, hood and shawl. 

Game them as reward to their warriors all. 

Saying, "This as a medal of bravery take 

For leaving precious lives at stake." 

Answered then good Captain Strong, 

With explanation full and long; 

E'en as he spoke a scout arrived — 

"The tribe have started back," he cried. 

Blushed for shame the women then: 

"Forgive our hasty words, brave men. 

Those words from foolish anger came." 

"We gladly forgive thee, worthy dame, 

Hut still these trophies do we claim; 

To us they will be as the pillar of flame. 

Which Israel followed o'er the plain. 

When tomorrow we speed on Columbia's main, 

Beyond Multnomah's silv'ry fountain. 

Toward lovely Hood, our sentinel mountain, 

To the Cascades' roaring torrent. 



Where foams with rage the rushing current, 

On the mast of the Belle, our gallant boat, 

This apron shall securely float. 

While above will wave this bonnet free. 

Speaking of home and victory. 

This shawl, our Spartan matrons' shield. 

To savage foe we'll never yield; 

But bring it back with us in glory. 

Or ne'er return to tell the story. 

'Twill be our boast in all sorts of weather. 

That we show a white hood, not a white feather! 
Thus did the aged pioneer bold 
Tell me this tender tradition of old. 

AN .\FTER-THOUGHT. 

Ever, women of Vancouver, be 

Impulsive, generous and nobly free. 

As were your ancestors of yore. 

Who settled on storied Columbia's shore: 

And may all men of je olden town 

Ever tremble at a woman's frown; 

Ever your colors bravely wear, 

O, ye maidens, so bright and fair! 



Memaloose signifies death or the abode of the dead. 

Memaloose Island,, in the Columbia River, was a famous Indian 
burial ground. 

Isaac LaBelle was a bold trapper who possessed the confidence 
and friendship of the Indians. 

Trusty Indian Jack was a friendly Indian who risked his life 
on several occasions during this war to warn his white friends of im- 
pending massacre. 



A WESTERN CROMWELL. 



All students of history have read of that dramatic 
scene when Oliver Cromwell, England's great protector, 
at the head of his invincible "Ironsides" marched down 
the great hall where the "long parliament" was in session 
and dismissed that dignified assemblage. An event some- 
what similar to this was enacted amid the primeval forests 
of the Territory of Washington more than forty years 
ago. 

In 185G the pioneers of Washington were engaged in 
a bloody border warfare aeainst the savage tribes. Gov- 
ernor Stevens had apnointed Col. B. F. Shaw, a gallant 
frontiersman and Indian fighter, to the command of the 
volunteer militia. Several French-Canadian fur-trappers, 
who were charged with having given "aid and comfort 
to the enemy," had been captured and placed under a 
military guard at Fort Steilacoom. In order to keep these 
prisoners from the civil authorities. Governor Stevens 
proclaimed martial law over Pierce and Thurston Coun- 
ties. 

At this time Edward Lander was chief justice of the 
territory, having been appointed by President Zachary 
Taylor. Judge Lander was an upright, dignified whig of 
the "old school." The declaration of martial law had 
aroused the indignation of the worthy jurist, and he pro- 
ceeded to open the spring session of the district court of 
Pierce County at Fort Steilacoom. wath the intention of 
inflicting just punishment upon those who had shown 
contempt for the majesty of the law as represented in his 
own august personage. It w^as also suspected that a writ 
of habeas corpus would oe issued, ordering the military 
authorities to give up the prisoners for trial by the civil 
courts. This act Governor Stevens w^as determined to 
prevent. When the day dawned upon which the court 
was to convene the excitement was intense. News of 
ihe impending trouble had spread abroad, and many set- 
tlers from the surrounding country had driven to the 

"settlement" to witness the exciting event. 

It was a pleasant May morning and the people gath- 
ered in groups within the little clearing around the court- 
house, discussing the important questions of the day, in- 
cluding the general conduct of the war. It is hardly 
necessary to remark that in conformity with their priv- 
ileges as American citizens, these stay-at-homers bitterly 
denounced the judge, tlic governor, the militia officers and 



all others in authority. With slow, dignified steps the 
gallant judge walked by the noisy groups and entered Uk- 
courtroom. He was followed by the bailifif and. at a 
more respectful distance, bv the entire crowd. 

After seating himself and carefully adjusting hi^ 
powdered wig, the chief justice commanded the bailifif to 
call the court to order. That gallant custodian of the 
law, mindful of his great importance, arose and in hi^ 
loudest tones shouted: "Hear ye, hear ye, hear ycl" Ai 
this point he was interrupted by the noisy tramp, tramp, 
tramp of a band of men marching up the steps. The cry 
of "soldiers, soldiers" was heard in many parts of the 
room. "Order in the court!" sternly shouted the judge. 
"Air. Bailifif, proceed." Thus admonished, that worthy 
continued: "The district court of the fourth judicial dis- 
trict of the Territory of Washington is now — " "Forward, 
march!" Bang! The door flew open with a slam, and 
into the room rushed Colonel Shaw at the head of his 
company of brave Washington volunteers. In spite of 
their vigorous protests, the judge and his bailiff were 
promptly seized and placed under arrest; the room was 
quickly cleared and the door locked. 

It may be safely assumed that when the free Ameri- 
can citizens, who had been thus summarily ejected from 
a public building, again assembled on the outside, their 
arguments were somewhat more heated than formerly. 
The discussion was taken up by the politicians of that 
time and became the burning issue of an exciting political 
contest. Those who sided with Chief Justice Lander were 
called "confederates of the savages," while Governor 
Stevens and Colonel Shaw were denounced as "tyrants" 
and "military despots." 

As the campaign progressed, old party ties were rent 
asunder, and the war governor received the loyal support 
of the volunteers and the "war whigs." His vigorous war 
policy met with the approval of the people. 

At the conclusion of the political contest all patriotic 
citizens joined hands in a united effort to restore peace 
to the distracted territory. It is but fair to state that 
Judge Lander himself shouldered a musket and proved 
himself a brave soldier as well as an honest judge. 

This is a brief description of the manner in which 
Governor Stevens thwarted what he considered an un- 
called-for attempt to interfere with his military opera- 
tions at a critical period. After an examination by a 
military commission the prisoners were released. 



Of the prominent actors in this stirring scene Col. B. 
F Shaw the present state senator from Clarke County, 
now alone survives. With his strong, giant-hke form and 
vigorous intellect, he seems a fitting embodiment of the 
"heroic age" of Washington's history. He is a true type 
of the sturdy pioneer yeomanry that fought so bravely 
upon Connell's Prairie and Spokane's Plain. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

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